Thursday, November 11, 2010

Na zdravi!

For the last weekend of my break, I left France for Prague. I had an incredible time. It was a much more manageable city than Paris. Our hostel was really a palace for us low budget travelers and it was in the perfect location. We were about a three minute walk from one of the most overrated but charming tourist sights in the world, the Astronomical Clock that chimes with the Walk of the Apostles every hour on the hour. Crowds of people would gather to see the event, and their was a collective sigh at the end, when they realized nothing jumped out of the clock or anything fantastical we'd see in a movie today. It was ahead of its time when it was built in the 15th century, however. There were just two men who had the genius to build a moving musical inside the clock, Mikulas of Kadan and Jan Sindel, so it really was an impressive feat many years ago. On the other side of our palace was the Charles Bridge, the most entertaining bridge I've ever walked across. Under dozens of now blackened statues of saints, monks, and Jesus himself was dozens of street vendors. Jewelry, paintings, whistles, caricatures, and a great jazz band met us every few meters. An older couple began to dance to the man who sounded like Louie Armstrong while onlookers smiled and cheered. The atmosphere was much more friendly in Prague. People who learned we were American didn't shuffle away or get the concerned crease in their eyebrows, but asked us where in the States we were from and peppered us with other questions. It was comforting to hear so much English, and so fun to hear a new language, Czech. It sounds incredibly hard to learn, but its great to listen. Our free tour guide, Jeff, said he had been living in Prague for six years, and can only speak as well as a three-year-old having a tantrum. He took us all over the city, and by the end of our 4 days, it felt like we really did see the whole city. After touring the Jewish quarter, seeing where Kafka was born, and straining for a look at Prague Castle from the symphony hall, we went back to the Old Town Square where a market was commencing in front of the Tyn Cathedral. I tried a great big sausage, and Prague did not let me down! It was fabulous. And of course, I had to try a Pilsner because you can't go to Prague and not drink their culture! Everything we had to eat there was great and I'm sure I have a pound or two to show it, although we did a lot of walking as well! The most interesting parts were the Old Town square and St. Wenceslas, I think. The Old Town town hall was the site of much political and religious angst, and we learned that anyone who challenged the Protestant Jan Hus was likely to be thrown from the windows. Of course, he was overcome by Catholics, and there was more blood shed on the way out the window. The history of Wenceslas square was much calmer. It was the site of the Velvet Revolution, where thousands of Czechoslovakians jingled their keys in hopes to be released from the oppressive, locked society of the Germans. In the same non-violent way, the square hosted the Velvet Divorce years later, when the Czechs wanted to be Czech and the Slovakians wanted to be Slovakian, and neither wanted to be under Russia's Communist thumb. Major historical decisions that could have been reason enough for war were made calmly. It's a shame the Czech's attitude hasn't spread to more of the world.
We also visited the John Lennon wall, something I was really excited about. It was colorful and moving. It was so cool to think how John and his music had such an impact on people, and they wanted to remember him in the perfect way. We got to sign our names, which I think might be one of the coolest things I've got to do in Europe. I just love the beatles and Dad, I thought of you the whole time!
I spotted Marks and Spencer and Debenhams in Wenceslas square, and it reminded me of London four years ago. I can't believe I'm on my own in Europe at last! I was so happy to think about all the different cultures I'm learning about and the experiences I'm having. I'm so glad I have the opportunity to do what I'm doing! I think Prague is definitely a place I would like to return to, and certainly a place I would recommend.

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