Saturday, December 18, 2010

The Final Countdown

89 days.
822 pictures taken.
6 flights taken.
2 countries visited.
7 regions of France explored.
2 Metro strikes.
1 ticket canceled by the Metro strike.
2 visits with family.
LOTS of crepes and paninis.
Even more friends made.
10 moments I saw the Eiffel Tower sparkle.
3 glasses of Beaujoulais.
4 walks down the Champs-Elysees.
1 fireworks show.
2 pairs of shoes purchased.
13 french films viewed.
5 snowfalls.
1 semester completed.
100s of memories made.
1 unforgettable experience.

Wednesday, December 15, 2010

It's Christmas Time in the City...

I just had a lovely Parisian day after class. I went to Notre Dame and took pictures of the Christmas tree in front of it, like everyone else. I strolled down to a cafe decorated for Christmas in Saint Michel and had a chocolat chaud while I perused a magazine and watched all the bundled up people walk along the Seine. I'm going to miss losing track of time in this city.
Many parts of Paris are gearing up for Christmas! In many main streets, including Rue de Rennes right near my school, lights are strung across the street and lit up as soon as it gets dark. They glitter and sparkle, and there are even lights in a swirly shape that has a little glimmer of light spinning from top to bottom. There are trees everywhere, not just at Notre Dame, and of course, almost every storefront has decoration in it. My favorite is a store towards Saint Sulpice with penguins swaying slowly from side to side. It's not very Christmasy, but it's rather adorable. Christmas markets are everywhere! They're a little different from Strasbourg, they sell a lot of what Parisians want; basically anything you can find in a boutique but in a cute little wooden house. Strasbourg had a lot of Christmas memorabilia, ornaments, and the like, and while Paris has some of that as well, you're more likely to do your Christmas shopping in these markets. And of course, there's always a great sweet treat to indulge in! I love that Paris is getting as excited about Christmas as I always am!!

Sunday, December 12, 2010

Wrapping Up Presents and Paris

I can't believe I'm approaching my last week in Paris! When I look back, it seems to all have been a blur, but it feels like time is going by slowly when you're looking ahead, have you ever noticed that? I can remember when I realized I would be home in 9 weeks- single digits! And just a few days ago I said wow, I'm in the single digits but this time in days. Six days from now I'll be boarding a plane (fingers crossed it's not delayed!) and returning home! It's surreal to think about. I've been planning this trip for so long, and soon it'll be one of the fondest memories I have. Oh dear, I think I'm going to start tearing up soon... This city is amazing, there are things here that no other place has. I'm going to miss just wandering the streets, walking for hours and not getting tired because Ooh la la, I'm in Paris. I'm going to miss walking down the street and smelling fresh bread in the air. I'll miss just saying "Bonjour" when I walk into a store or a cafe. But I've missed my family and friends for so long! Can't I just have both? I have a sneaky feeling that when I come home, it'll feel like I never left, but so much has happened! It's going to be quite strange the first couple of days. There are things I know I'll miss, things I'm glad I don't have to deal with anymore, but over here we're all wondering what it'll be like to adjust to America again. Can it really be that hard? We left for three months, but most of us have lived there for twenty years! I think I'm going to have PTPD: Post-traumatic Paris disorder. I'm so glad I have amazing people to come back to, that will make it easier, I think.
And now, packing phase two... and I was overweight the first time....

Le Capitale de Noel

Last weekend brought me to the Christmas markets in Strasbourg. I was expecting a great deal of festive cheer, and I was not disappointed. Strasbourg is adorable in itself; it's 5 kilometers from Germany, so you can really see the German influence on the architecture and local cuisine! Back in the day France and Germany fought over this territory and of course, after WWII, France won. It's a charming little gem about as east as you can go, laughing all the way, ha ha ha!

I stayed with a family that have recently moved back to France after having lived in my hometown for several years, and in fact a few of their kids had been my mom's students. It was so amazing to hear them speak in French and English. They jibbered back in forth in both languages flawlessly. When they spoke English, there was no French accent, and vice versa. It made me want to become fluent even more! They're all so young and they know two languages perfectly, and some will be learning a third in the next year. It was inspiring and I was a little jealous!

When we went to the markets in the center of Strasbourg, every street was decorated and lights glittered everywhere. Every street had a different color or style of lights than the one before it, and every building looked like a giant present all wrapped up. The markets were full of ornaments, dancing Santas and stockings. The markets are set up almost like little gingerbread houses, each vendor in a different one, and they're all set up in a row, creating little streets of Christmas. The smell of Christmas trees and hot wine was the cherry on top. A cozy restaurant and sauerkraut warmed me up later. I was excited to try another local dish, and it was really interesting. The texture was a little different for me, it was almost a steamed onion and lettuce at the same time, I wasn't sure what to expect because I don't think I've had cabbage before. It tasted pretty good though, and add some sausage and potatoes-you can't go wrong. It was a great day.

On my second and last day, I took a little stroll around La Petit France. It was more like Germany, I thought. All the buildings had that somewhat thatched look with the brown stripes across the front. We saw more markets and I bought a little souvenir for home. It wasn't as decorated as the center of the city, but it was adorable in its own way. The German-French fusion was so fun to see!

The more I see of France, the more I want to spend more time here! The Tuleu's were great hosts, and I hope I can go back again someday!

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Family Matters

The last few weeks has been full of family fun! I was lucky enough to be visited by my dad, my mum, my sister and grandpa! My dad arrived first, and we had a whirlwind of a trip. In one day, we covered what seemed to be the entire city! Dad was a trooper, after two flights and a seven hour layover, he still had energy to give me a great big daddy hug, and see the Luxembourg Gardens, St. Sulpice, the Pantheon, Notre Dame, the Louvre, and even le Tour d'Eiffel! We watched it sparkle as we caught up and chilled out (it's getting 'froid' over here!). We heard some great jazz music that weekend and the fog lifted long enough for us to see all of Paris from Montmatre, which Dad loved! It was as if no time had passed, but of course, two months have gone by full of changes and developments. It was surreal at first to be bopping around Paris with Dad, after all, I've had this city all to myself for so long, but at the same time, it felt so normal! I had such a great time, I was so happy to share Paris with Dad. After I put him on the RER back to CDG, I couldn't help but tear up as I walked to the supermarket.
As you read and I write, Mum and Amanda are on their way home to the states (and by the sounds of it, it's not been an easy trip back!) They arrived here last Saturday, fatigued but wide-eyed by the city. I remembered all the planning Mum and I had done, before I was accepted into API and before she knew if she could make the trip, and planning all the things we would do and see. And she was finally here! Amanda had a brief encounter with Paris when she studied abroad four years ago, and it was great to show her around what I feel is now 'my city.' We took a more leisurely pace than Dad and I, since they were spending a few more days in the city, and even had time for naps. It was great to watch Mum's face light up as we came upon Notre Dame, Musee d'Orsay, and the Eiffel. I can still hear Mum's "Oh!" of surprise when she saw the Eiffel begin to sparkle!
After a few girly days, Grandpa arrived to his mother country. Knowing that he grew up speaking French, I was looking forward to speaking with him and seeing his face light up at all the French around him. We went up the Eiffel Tower to the blustering wind his first night here and took in the view. Paris was at our feet, or, 115 meters below them. We dined in our new favorite restaurant, Le Grenier, which we frequented quite a bit this past week. You'll find it on Rue Mouffetard, a charming, winding street in the Latin Quarter, or Stathis will find you and wave you inside - the charismatic and welcoming owner of the restaurant. It's a homey little place, decorated with skiing knick knacks and pictures of the French countryside. If you pass up the boeuf bourginogne (although why you would do that, I don't know) try the Filet of Pork or Confit de Canard. You really can't go wrong, even the avalanche of vegetables is one of the best salads you'll have in Paris. After a generous amount of wine, courtesy of Stathis, the volume and the energy level rises and it's like you're a part of a big family as more and more diners enter and eat. Stathis jokes with everyone and makes sure there is a smile on their face before he chats with the next table. Rick Steeves, why didn't you find this place first?
I returned to Versailles again on Tuesday, with the family in tow. I was particularly excited about this day, since I knew everyone had been looking forward to seeing the chateau. We spent a great, long morning inside, soaking up all the monarchy had to offer. Although I had seen it before, it was awesome to watch my family's jaws drop and their eyes widen.
Wednesday and Thursday were devoted to more sight seeing and some browsing at Shakespeare in Co. I could get lost in that place, you'll never see any part of the walls in there; they're covered in books! It's my kind of place. And they had the homey, squashy arm chairs Barnes n' Noble certainly lacks. And of course, for our Thanksgiving meal and our last meal with Grandpa, we returned to Stathis, our home away from home. There was no turkey, but we still felt festive. Not to mention, there was flaming apple tart ...
As the weather grew colder, I still had that warm and fuzzy feeling only the comforts of home can bring you. Both trips were so special, and I'm so glad we'll have these memories forever. I'm so lucky to have shared these experiences with the people I love! Oh, I mustn't cry again! Although I had to wait most of my trip to see my family, I think it's better this way. Now I only have to wait 3 weeks to see them again! Although, as I walked all around the city this morning, I know that will come all too soon. For now, I'm just glad to have shared the city I love with the people I love.

Thursday, November 11, 2010

Na zdravi!

For the last weekend of my break, I left France for Prague. I had an incredible time. It was a much more manageable city than Paris. Our hostel was really a palace for us low budget travelers and it was in the perfect location. We were about a three minute walk from one of the most overrated but charming tourist sights in the world, the Astronomical Clock that chimes with the Walk of the Apostles every hour on the hour. Crowds of people would gather to see the event, and their was a collective sigh at the end, when they realized nothing jumped out of the clock or anything fantastical we'd see in a movie today. It was ahead of its time when it was built in the 15th century, however. There were just two men who had the genius to build a moving musical inside the clock, Mikulas of Kadan and Jan Sindel, so it really was an impressive feat many years ago. On the other side of our palace was the Charles Bridge, the most entertaining bridge I've ever walked across. Under dozens of now blackened statues of saints, monks, and Jesus himself was dozens of street vendors. Jewelry, paintings, whistles, caricatures, and a great jazz band met us every few meters. An older couple began to dance to the man who sounded like Louie Armstrong while onlookers smiled and cheered. The atmosphere was much more friendly in Prague. People who learned we were American didn't shuffle away or get the concerned crease in their eyebrows, but asked us where in the States we were from and peppered us with other questions. It was comforting to hear so much English, and so fun to hear a new language, Czech. It sounds incredibly hard to learn, but its great to listen. Our free tour guide, Jeff, said he had been living in Prague for six years, and can only speak as well as a three-year-old having a tantrum. He took us all over the city, and by the end of our 4 days, it felt like we really did see the whole city. After touring the Jewish quarter, seeing where Kafka was born, and straining for a look at Prague Castle from the symphony hall, we went back to the Old Town Square where a market was commencing in front of the Tyn Cathedral. I tried a great big sausage, and Prague did not let me down! It was fabulous. And of course, I had to try a Pilsner because you can't go to Prague and not drink their culture! Everything we had to eat there was great and I'm sure I have a pound or two to show it, although we did a lot of walking as well! The most interesting parts were the Old Town square and St. Wenceslas, I think. The Old Town town hall was the site of much political and religious angst, and we learned that anyone who challenged the Protestant Jan Hus was likely to be thrown from the windows. Of course, he was overcome by Catholics, and there was more blood shed on the way out the window. The history of Wenceslas square was much calmer. It was the site of the Velvet Revolution, where thousands of Czechoslovakians jingled their keys in hopes to be released from the oppressive, locked society of the Germans. In the same non-violent way, the square hosted the Velvet Divorce years later, when the Czechs wanted to be Czech and the Slovakians wanted to be Slovakian, and neither wanted to be under Russia's Communist thumb. Major historical decisions that could have been reason enough for war were made calmly. It's a shame the Czech's attitude hasn't spread to more of the world.
We also visited the John Lennon wall, something I was really excited about. It was colorful and moving. It was so cool to think how John and his music had such an impact on people, and they wanted to remember him in the perfect way. We got to sign our names, which I think might be one of the coolest things I've got to do in Europe. I just love the beatles and Dad, I thought of you the whole time!
I spotted Marks and Spencer and Debenhams in Wenceslas square, and it reminded me of London four years ago. I can't believe I'm on my own in Europe at last! I was so happy to think about all the different cultures I'm learning about and the experiences I'm having. I'm so glad I have the opportunity to do what I'm doing! I think Prague is definitely a place I would like to return to, and certainly a place I would recommend.

A tour of Tours

I visited the town of Tours in the Loire Valley of France for the first week of my vacation. After Paris, Tours seems a little sleepy, but it was a wonderful place to recharge my batteries; if I were to live in France, I would probably choose a place like Tours, rather than a busy city like Paris. Tours was really accessible, we left the train station and everything we wanted was at our finger tips; tourist office, great food, and shops. We walked to the old part of the city, the vielle ville, which presented us with many cafes, restaurants, and pubs. The buildings looked like something you would find in Germany; quaint almost shed-looking structures, with the criss-crossing wood on every facade. There was a small square where only a few children were trick-or-treating on Halloween night (not the most popular holiday in France). The square was lively with all the chatter and music from each cafe and its guests. The walk home was almost like Comm Ave in Boston, a place to walk in the middle of the traffic lined with trees turning yellow. Tours felt like home, but more French.
The Loire Valley is famous for its many chateaux, and we were lucky to see four of them. We saw the largest first, Chambord, which used to be a hunting lodge. It was certainly grand enough to be inhabited full time, I thought, but of course, the Comte and Comtesses (count and countess) probably require more grandeur than I. Part of the spires that topped the chateau were designed by da Vinci himself, I was shocked to learn. I didn't know he dabbled in architecture in France. There were 365 fireplaces- one fire for every day of the year! And the views from the balconies were incredible. I got a healthy dose of fall foliage in France at last. The sloping grounds were surrounded by gorgeous reds, oranges, and yellows. It was like New England had come to France just for me.
Chenonceau was much smaller, but just as beautiful. The walk to the chateau was littered with leaves we could shuffle in all the way to the entrance. Chenonceau sits on its moat, which gives the smaller chateau a really elegant look. Inside there was less to see, but the draw of Chenonceau is really its exterior. It was more humble than Chambord, and perhaps more breathtaking.
We visited Villandry next, in which the family who owns it actually still lives there! It was the smallest of all the chateaux, but is famed for its gardens, and rightfully so. The inside of the chateau was gorgeous, the limestone walls and the large windows allowed light to consume each room, which was decorated with light, pastel furniture and paintings. Out of every window, you could see the massive, intricate gardens. There are seven in all, each with a different meaning- we didn't even have time to see them all! There is a water and sun garden, with plants to represent the sun itself. Another garden represented different aspects of love. There was sweet, head-over-heels love that contained several bushes shaped like large hearts, surrounded by other bushes and plants. Another garden was said to represent the dance that is love, with shapes that almost looked like hearts arranged almost like puzzle pieces that fit together. And then there was your average garden, you know, the one that takes about ten minutes to walk through (and that's if you're speeding, Gonzalez). There were plenty of pumpkins which I loved, it felt very festive. I saw purple cabbage for the first time, and dozens of other flowers and plants. It must be quite a job to maintain gardens like that. I would take a turn about those gardens all day if I could.
The last chateau we toured was Azay-le-Rideau. It wasn't noticeably larger than Villandry, but the interior was much darker. The wooden floors and walls in every room and the heavy curtains draped across the windows made me feel uninvited. Kings and counts only stopped there for a few nights on their journeys, but it seemed less welcoming than Villandry and the others. The moat outside, however, reflected the chateau which made it look picturesque, a perfect post card. The grounds were much more intimate and provided a little foliage as well. It was so interesting to see the different structures of each chateau and I think fall is the best time to see them. The gardens must be beautiful in the spring, but the views and the surrounding trees were the perfect touch.
Or maybe I'm just missing New England for a change.

Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Into the West...

Last weekend we went on another excursion to Normandy and Brittany! It was a whirlwind trip taking place over just two days, or actually, about 36 hours.
Both regions were beautiful. There was a lot of blue velvet, red curtains, bumpy terrain and...oh wait, that wasn't France, that was our bus! Yes, a lot of this excursion was spent traveling on a large purple bus. We all wished for one more day, perhaps leaving Friday afternoon instead of Saturday morning, but at least we got to go!
We first arrived in Caen (almost like caw with a silent "n") mid-Saturday morning at Le Memorial, a museum dedicated to D-Day and WWII. After having a quick but tasty sandwich, we viewed a video with actual footage from 1944. Afterward, we had a little over an hour to take in an overwhelming amount of information. The museum was really great, our audio guides told us some unique information as we looked at old letters, artifacts, and more footage of speeches given by the Fuhrer himself. It was interesting to hear France's take on things. They admitted that their defense was really a lazy offense at the beginning of WWII, and it really wasn't until D-Day that they sprang into action. There was little mention of the Vel d'Hiv, the round up of French Jews that happened right in Paris! I hear there's a memorial museum, remind me to look that up...
Then we jumped on the bus again and headed towards Omaha Beach. It was absolutely gorgeous there, ocean as far as the eye could see. It was almost spooky in a way, however; standing there listening to the waves gently beat out a rhythm on the shore and imagining the sky completely black with fog, planes, and parachutes. Some unfortunate soldiers didn't even make it to the beaches, their gear was so heavy they drowned when their parachutes landed in the sea. Here across the ocean were an overwhelming amount of graves. Thousands and thousands of souls rested in one of the most peaceful places in France (well...technically we were on American soil, but as we're on a separate continent, I say it's in France) that was once wrought with action and despair. I got shivers not from the cold, but thinking of the impact that this very place had in both France and US history.
Again, we loaded on the bus and napped our way to St. Malo, a fortified city in Bretagne, or Brittany. It was charming, more winding streets and little shops. There was not much color compared to Collioure, but there were many more crepes! Brittany is the home of the crepe, and not just your average looks-like-a-pancake- throw-some-Nutella-on-there-oh-and-add-a-banana-for-good-measure crepe. For dinner, I had steak (yes, I'm still trying new things!) with onions and tomatoes in a buckwheat crepe, which I had never seen before! It was like compressed wheat bread, but so much better. Go try it, you'll see.
After getting a comfortable night's sleep we departed the next day for Mont St. Michel, one of the 7 marvels of the world! Yes, marvels are made by man, and wonders are stumbled upon and we wonder (get it?) who made them! After trekking up a hill of adorable shops and more creperies we made it to the entrance which presented us with more stairs. We made our way up and finally got to explore the abbey. It was comprised of many empty stone rooms, all of which monks used for prayer, eating in the refectory, and a chapel for burial. Of course, outside on the terrace provided us with more incredible views. The tide was out, the sand stretched along one side of the abbey and the other side reminded me of a green patchwork quilt. It was the quintessential french countryside, which we saw more of as we made our 5 hour journey home. Cows and sheep grazed lazily in their fields and I have to admit I was a little jealous, as most of my body began to insensate on the bus. It was a busy weekend but it was interesting to see such historic places and regions that were completely unlike Paris! It's good to be home, though.

Monday, October 18, 2010

The Strike (part deux)

Well, we're heading in to week two of the metro strike. It started last Tuesday with more demonstrations full of music, marching, and even free food. The majority of the population opposes the reform Sarkozy is proposing, and therefore support the strike. The story goes that the retirement age from 60 to 62, and one can no longer collect a full pension at 65, they must wait those extra two years until age 67.
A lot of American students I have spoken to are thoroughly exasperated with this issue. "I'm going to have to work til I'm 80," we all say, "62 looks pretty good to me." It's true, the reaction France has had to this idea of Sarkozy's has only reinforced stereotypes of the French: lazy complainers.
On the one hand, it seems futile. Why inconvenience a nation when really, it isn't so bad to work two more years. After all, they are notorious for the 35 hour work week and they are privileged with a great amount of vacation time. It seems unlikely that Sarkozy will change his mind, he's called this retirement issue "non-negotiable," so why all the fuss? The strike is making life a lot harder not for the elite, who are in control of the decisions, but the general, every day people. It's a good idea; rally the everyman together and effect change. Except it doesn't seem like that's happening.
I admire the French for standing up in what they believe in and trying to make a country for and by the people. After all, America had no problem voicing its opinion during Vietnam. Where is our fire now? But on the other hand, I missed out on a trip to Provence because of this! The one place I had my heart set on to visit in France, and I never got to go. I lost a good chunk of euro-change on the hotel as well. Luckily, I will be reimbursed for the tickets, but it almost doesn't matter when I think about everything I could have seen and experienced. This could have been a perfect catalyst for action. Although I'm an American, I could have done some research and found a way to complain or tell Sarkozy, or a representative of my district, that I don't agree with the changes to the retirement age.
But I didn't. As a foreigner, I feel I shouldn't bother in other countries politics, especially when I'm not entirely educated on the subject. But are people in France who do know what's going on taking action? My guess is no. So why go on?
This Thursday there will be a vote as to whether or not the strike should keep on rolling. Of course, everyone from API is praying for an end. As for the rest of the country, I guess we're going to have to wait and see how far they'll go to get their voices heard.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

You know you've adjusted to living in Paris when...

You don't smile at passersby, other people on the metro, tram, or RER. Silly American, smiles are for kids!
You've mastered the withering stare. No, I'm not scowling at you, but I certainly won't smile.
A baguette is a better accessory than a purse or a puppy.
Metro strikes don't phase you, they're a part of life. Finding an alternate route? That's your specialty.
If you want to open the doors of the tram or the metro, do it yourself.
You can walk up the hill of Montmatre in heels. At night. (I still haven't mastered that one myself)
You can contain yourself and have a conversation quietly. Those cafe chairs are close together, you don't want anyone else hearing about your business!
Tip? What's that?
Crepes aren't an indulgence, they're a way of life.
You have one, or more, panini stands that you frequent. Bumping into your panini proprietors at the grocery store is common.
You don't need to speed-walk down the street. Actually, why not stop in the middle of it and finish your conversation? Others can walk around you, pas de problem.
Brushing past someone to get onto the metro first isn't offensive, it's just part of the morning commute.
The key to making it through the commute- layers. Even when it's 19C (that's right, I said Celsius), the metro is still a sauna. Wear things to take off without ending up french beach style.
Forget personal space. Just forget it.

I've learned so much in just three weeks! In three months I will be truly Parisian...and then it's time to re-adapt to America...

Wednesday, October 6, 2010

Day Trippin

Last weekend was spent in the southern region of France, Roussillon. We stayed in Collioure, a small town in a valley about a half an hour’s drive from Perpignan, the city we flew in to. It was charming and quaint, a perfect getaway from the city. The streets were small and winding, with shops and gelato stands every few meters (not feet, this is France!). Each building was a different color, red or pink or yellow. The Mediterranean was almost as blue as the sky, and the Pyrenees towered above us the entire weekend. We took a tourist train ride up the mountains, and the view was incredible. It was so surreal; you learn about the Mediterranean and the Pyrenees in class when you’re young, but do you ever think, someday I’ll go see them! Someday I’ll walk on the mountains and swim in the sea.
Yes, I swam in the Mediterranean. In October. It was as much fun as it was cold.
The city of Perpignan was a little bigger, a little busier than Collioure. We were able to see old city walls that at one time belonged to Spain. There’s a long history of territory battles between France and Spain, and a lot of it happened right in Perpignan. The ownership of the city went back and forth until the very late 1400s. We also saw the Cathedral of John the Baptist, that looked from the outside as if it was built during the Renaissance, but it dated back to the Middle Ages. It was very simple on the outside but extravagant on the inside.
The last day of the trip we traveled to Villefranche de Conflent, where we saw famous grottos, or caves, of Les Grottes des Grandes Calanettes. Imagine, one hundred years of a human life only adds up to a second in the life of the stalactites and stalagmites. The “galleries,” basically certain sections of the cave, were enormous. The largest gallery was called the Cathedral, and it looked like one that was made entirely by Earth itself. Some stalagmites rose out of the ground as tall as me! The man who discovered one of the galleries gave us a tour, and what a character. He was so passionate about his findings and the knowledge he was giving to us. His charismatic demeanor came through even though he spoke only French and Spanish, and Annemarie had to translate.
It was an active weekend, yet I felt entirely relaxed as I gazed out over the sea up past the mountains. The sea air was refreshing, and it was so interesting to see a new side of France. I can’t wait to see more!

Sunday, September 26, 2010

Princess for a day

Versailles was our destination today. The rain waited for us to see the chateau and the gardens and allowed us to have a great visit. Since we were a large group tour booked in advance, we didn't have to wait in the long, snaking lines outside in the breeze. A note to all those interested in visiting: bring something to do for hours in line, or find a way to get tickets and skip it! If it wasn't Versailles, it would not be worth waiting, but you don't see much better than this grand chateau.
The massive building topped with 24 karat gold was completely packed. Sunday isn't a prime tourist day, if you're hoping for some personal space. But being bumped and shoved was worth it when you looked above you to see carvings and paintings and gold everywhere. While we didn't see the entire chateau (did Marie Antoinette even visit every room while she reigned?), we saw the main draws. Large rooms where the kings sampled tea, hot chocolate, champagne, or played cards and french versions of backgammon. Of course, we saw the bedchambers as well. Some statues and even the bed of Marie Antoinette are original pieces, preserved for hundreds of years. After the war room was the main event; the hall of mirrors. What once must have gleamed a spotless reflection of Marie and Louis the XVI was faded with dust, but grand all the same. The long mirrors were copied on the other side of the long hallway by windows, looking out onto two fountains and perfectly manicured lawns. There were too many chandeliers to count, and of course, every inch of wall and ceiling was covered in gold carvings or beautiful paintings. Every room you went in there was so much to observe and take in. There was at least one large painting on every wall, and some were even originals! It was almost eerie to think that hundreds of years ago, all the stories you hear about and the pictures you see depicting history actually happened- right where you're standing now! If only we had a Delorian to see what it was really like.
The gardens, which we almost did not get to see, were even more incredible. If you go to Versailles, you cannot skip the gardens! There were fountains, statues, and flowers everywhere you looked. Flowers surrounded fountains and zigged and zagged between well trimmed trees. Everything was in excess, you'd think the French would be a little more understanding about Americans. The grass was perfectly kept and in different patterns, there must be hundreds of people hired to keep the flowers vibrant and the trees neat and clean. Walking away from Versailles with the chateau looming behind us, we came upon more fountains, more statues, and even a pond that must have been man made, since its size and proportion to the rest of the gardens were perfect. There was even period music playing through speakers for the whole garden to hear! I doubt that Marie strolled about listening to music coming from inside some shrubs, but it helped put the tourist in the era of pre-revolution. The whole effect of Versailles is overwhelmingly beautiful. I can see why the revolutionaries didn't tear it to pieces; while it stood for oppression, it's just too darn pretty!

Thursday, September 23, 2010

the metro is easier than youd think...

Unless you are traveling during a strike. Today many metro lines and RERs were not running because of a protest. The retirement age was raised to 62 and I think that's what fueled the fire. At the Cite Universitare RER, the gate would not open, so a journey to the next RER stop, maybe a mile or less, brought us to a running line. Luckily we got to school on time.
Going back, however, was another story. The strike was set to occur in the afternoon, on our way home. After a picturesque stroll through le Jardin du Luxembourg, our RER line was officially closed. We were in for a long walk. Luckily, two lines were running as usual, and line 4, which was all we could hope for, was one of them. The walk home was cut in half.
The protest itself, I did not witness. Andres, another API student, said he observed part of it. It was mostly marching with banners and signs, but there was also music, a dj in fact. French people protest in style. It was much different than anything he, I, or anyone else had anticipated. I think that's the way to do it. Make your point, but in a mature manner.
Tomorrow should be an easier day, all least for the commuters.

Tuesday, September 21, 2010

Honeymoon

The whole trip went really smoothly, once I transferred items from my large suitcase to my smaller one (twice), and then paid a $55 fee to check both bags, because even though you may measure your suitcases according to AirFrance’s specifications, it will not fit in the tiny luggage basket. After two hours of waiting, 6 hours of flight, and another hour of customs, baggage, and chaos to find the API meeting spot, I could finally relax.

Annemarie, the RD for API, greeted me with a hug and a croissant. She was helpful and talkative and understood how overwhelmed I was. After waiting another hour or so, more people began to arrive. I was able to take a shuttle with three other girls to our hotel. It’s a nice set up, a toilet in a room by itself (very common over here) then a room with a sink and a shower, which I almost fell into last night. the glass doesn’t go across the entirety of it and the shower head is one that you move around yourself. Something to get used to.
Although we were dying to sleep, we decided exploring Paris would be more fun.  The day was all you could hope for, for one’s first day in a city like Paris. The sun was smiling down and its seemed clouds did not want to blemish the sky. We ordered paninis (only 5e!) and had lunch in a petit jardin close to our hotel. We started to wander about the streets with their white buildings and black wrought iron balconies dripping with flowers, much like London. We made our way over to Notre Dame which was like a picture. I couldn’t believe I was really there. Sometimes you see a place so often in movies or pictures or art, when you see it for real it seems fake, like other times you’ve seen it. I thought it must’ve been a dream or a picture or someone was painting really fast. The architecture was so intricate and amazing. The saints stared down at us with glazed un-pupil-ed eyes. Were the judging us for entering for free Well, everyone else was doing it. there were TVs at the end of each pew, which made me a little sad. Whoever built Notre Dame would roll over in their grave if they saw that, it’s just not how it was intended. We could take pictures inside and oh, did we. The stain glass was so beautiful and rich. It was amazing to see it in person.
Later on was a dinner with all API students (and paid for by API!) where I tried to expand my pallet. I tried pate for my appetizer (entrée en francais) and it wasn’t bad! It’s like a bunch of different meats in one patty-like substance, and it goes great on bread. If it was a little smoother, like a spread perhaps, it may have been even better. There’s a texture thing you have to embrace. But I really liked it, and after my chicken and mashed potato (I know, I know) I tried crème brulee as well. It was amazing. I wish I could’ve eaten it all! The top was a very odd texture, almost like an eggshell but it melted in your mouth as you bit into it, if you can imagine. The custard like crème inside was bliss. Definitely a dessert to have more than once
After dinner and before my much longed-for shower, I went out with a few of the students for my first legal glass of wine from Provence. It was so fun to relax, have a glass, people watch and talk. There were bikers and motorcycles going by, as always in Paris, and of course many people walking by. Of course, some gave us withering stares as they heard us talking in English, but how authentically Parisian! Everything seems to be amusing and amazing now.
Even though I slept decently after persevering for 32 hours, I’m still a little sleepy.Before my next walk around Paris I think I’ll have a lie down.

Sunday, September 5, 2010

prendre la vie comme elle vient, prendre la vie comme elle est.

The 19th is fast approaching and the nervous are, too.  It comes in waves, I'm so excited at some points and then my stomach sinks and the nerves crash over me.  Last night, or rather, this morning at about 5, it was all I could think about.  Instead of relaxing and falling back to sleep, my brain kept making lists and asking questions.  What was I thinking?  How am I going to talk to people, can I really handle going to a foreign speaking country?  Why am I leaving my friends, my boyfriend, my family? 
Whew.
Well, I suppose it's to be expected.  API, or Academic Programs International, has prepared me the best they can.  I have a lot of orientation material about the program and even some material to practice my french.  The best thing for it is to go.  Allez!  I just wish I could shut my brain off during the remaining 14 days. 
It's very normal to stress about this experience, I'm sure....but it's also very annoying. 
I'm going to take a deep breath and follow the advice of Archimede (great french band-look em up!)

take life as it comes, take life as it is.

Thursday, August 19, 2010

Coming soon...

Hi everyone!  I leave for Paris a month from today!  Check in every so often from September through December to see how it's going.